JVC D Series Guide

SegaSaturn94
July 4, 2024, 5:08 pm

A Comprehensive Guide to the JVC D-Series

(And non-D-Series models)

NOTE: This is an excerpt from my North American JVC CRT Catalog Guide. Here is a link to the full document: North American CRT Catalog

Nowadays, JVC is mainly known for their D-Series line of sets from 1999-2005. The D-Series are fan favorites of retro gamers due being an alternative to Sonys with component inputs, and having that slot-mask “arcadey” look. Of course, any sets with slot-mask tubes over component or RGB can give off that arcade monitor feel; like Philips, Toshiba, Panasonic, Sharp, etc. but I digress.

The D-Series sets are in general pretty great, but not consistently from model to model. Some D-Series sets look considerably better/worse than others based on the chassis design and tube model. Some sets have nice scanline gaps, good focus, and decent convergence. Others look softer and more blurry, with a lot more image blooming. And of course like any other television, the amount of hours/wear and overall condition can make many of these factors much worse, so it is important to form an opinion from as large of a sample size as possible.

In my opinion, the earliest D-Series chassis are the best quality overall, and the best tube models are the larger 32” and 36” ones made by Hitachi, Panasonic and Toshiba. The Toshiba ones (denoted by the AHH family in their tube sticker identification) are especially good, because those have an invar shadow mask. Generally though, any low-hours D-Series in good condition can also look good.

NOTE: One thing I’d like to debunk is the high TVL myth. Some CRT fans still fall for the marketing nonsense JVC pulled out of thin air decades ago, so I aim to debunk this misunderstanding. These sets with advertised TVL like 600, 700, 800, even 850(!) are all extremely exaggerated. Critical thought challenge: if the high TVL claims were actually true, then these sets would be as sharp or even SHARPER than PVMs, but at a fraction of the cost! Does that really make any sense?

The way JVC calculated TVL was their own method called “lines horizontal resolution,” measuring by the entire screen width instead of the 3:3 square portion that was industry standard. So a set that is advertised as 600 TVL would actually be 0.75%, about 450 TVL at best by conventional standards. Some D-Series owners actually counted the phosphor triads on their sets to find out it’s even lower than that! JVC (and others) were fudging their measurement methods to get higher-sounding numbers for marketing purposes.

JVC wasn't the only one who advertised "horizontal resolution lines" for their TVs. This was done by most manufacturers from the mid-90s through the early 2000s for their larger size TVs. It is really just marketing. The only reason people in current day started talking about it with JVCs is because their product pages are still easily accessible on the internet, unlike other brands whose product pages were lost to time.

They are consumer TV tubes, people. They are found in sets by other brands and those have different rated TVL counts. Have realistic expectations.

Chassis Revisions

There were three main chassis revisions for JVC sets with component inputs, which also align with the non-D models for those years. (More on those further ahead.)

Early-era chassis: Dx00-Dx01 (1999-2000)

Uses a JVC JCC1007A jungle IC. Can be RGB modded. As far as I can tell, these sets have great picture quality and minimal raster bloom. They also have a 2-line comb filter. These all have black-colored cases.

You can find out what tube brand is inside D-Series, non-D’s, and I’Art models without even opening them! It's as simple as looking at the letter beside the serial number on the model number tag.

For D-Series and equivalent chassis from 1999-2000, it's either nothing or "A". 27" only came with RCA A68AEG25X, 32" came with either Hitachi A80LJF30X (default) or Panasonic M80JUA061X (A), 36" came with either RCA A90AEJ15X (default) or Toshiba A90AHH50X (A). Exceptions are the 36D800 which has RCA A90AFX15X, and 32D201 came with LG A80QCF240X, labeled "B".

There is also some mild red push on these sets as well. To disable it, go into the service menu and set items DEMO AX RY and CMP D AX R to “0.”

Speakers on all models are rated at 5W per channel.

Middle-era chassis: Dx02 (2001)

The middle-era chassis use a Toshiba TB1253AN jungle IC. Can be RGB modded. These sets have nasty red push you can turn off this way:

For TV channels, RF, composite, and s-video, you set R Y GAIN and CD MATRIX to “000.” Then switch over to component input and turn CMP R Y GAIN and CMP CD MATRIX to “000.” After that, red push should be completely eliminated.

While the previous sets have a 2-line comb filter, JVC began implementing 3-line comb filters which clean up the gnarliness of composite video considerably!

Starting in 2001, JVC would gradually transition away from black cases to silver. That year also began JVC’s cost-cutting of the chassis. Some of them were designed very cheaply:

“PCB is thin and solder is bad, they often need reflowing. Cheaply designed power supplies that result in a lot of image blooming. They dropped the E/W circuit from 27" models starting in 2001 so no full geometry adjustments on those. Picture quality can still look pretty nice though.”

-Informant

That year JVC also established a more standard way of knowing the tube models inside their sets, (curved and flat) with the following letter designations beside the serial number:

  • R - RCA/Thomson
  • S - Samsung
  • B - Goldstar/LG
  • M - Matsushita/Panasonic
  • H - Hitachi
  • Y - Toshiba
  • Z - Philips (JVC I’Arts only)

Speakers on the 27” models dropped to 1.2W per channel, but the larger models still retained 5W ones. The 20” D-Series used 1W speakers.

Late chassis: Dx03-Dx05. (2002-2004)

These models use four variants of the same TM8812C- jungle IC by Toshiba, but they are all essentially the same exact chip: -SANG3PF2, -SBNG3U68, -PDNG4N35, and -SDNG5DB9.

Unlike the previous models, none of these sets can be RGB modded, which is a bummer.

_JVC sets from 2002-2003 had a revised service menu with a new way to disable red push. This time, the setting became “NTSC MAT” (for matrix.) Setting that to “000” would eliminate red push.

Interestingly, the 2004 non-D-Series models don’t have any means to disable red push! JVC removed the option in the service menu completely for those models.

As for tube models, it's mostly the same as before. However, Panasonic and Toshiba merged picture tube production in 2003, so tubes from then on labeled Y, YM, and M would all be M.T. Picture Display Co.

D-Series Sets

These are the first D-Series models released in 1999. They all featured black-colored cases. There is a rumor that the earlier black-cased D-Series are better than the later silver sets for having higher quality chassis and tubes. There is partial truth to this, as the earliest chassis were of higher quality than the later ones. As for them having better tubes, we’ll get to that later. However, later sets like the 202 and 203 models used black cases as well, and those are arguably inferior.

AV-32D200 (1999) [A80LJF30X & M80JUA061X] AV-27D500 (1999) [Tube: RCA A68AEG25X]

AV-27D200 (1999) [Tube: RCA A68AEG25X] AV-32D500 (1999) [A80LJF30X & M80JUA061X]

Here is the JVC AV-36D800, from 1999. Unlike the later 36” models, this set shared the same case design as the older large JVC’s. [Tube: RCA A90AFX15X with invar shadow mask, a rare sight on RCA tubes!]

Picture quality was great for the time. Alas, this one has rather soft corners.

And here are some 2000 models using the same chassis and tubes. Once again, all in black cases:

AV-32D201 (2000) [A80QCF240X & A80LJF30X] AV-32D501 (2000) [A80QCF240X & A80LJF30X]

AV-36D201 (2000) _[A90AEJ15X & A90AHH50X] AV-36D501 (2000) [A90AEJ15X & A90AHH50X]

AV-27D201 (2000) [Tube: RCA A68AEG25X]

The 27” AEG family tubes by RCA are certainly higher quality than the “bubble-curve” 27” ADT family tubes that followed. The 27” AEG tube has a flatter curvature and a slightly finer dot pitch…

For example, here is an AV-27D501 (2000) which uses the RCA tube model A68AEG25X:

The component quality on a low-hours tube is quite nice. Even with sharpening turned all the way down, however, there is some very mild luma ghosting to the right of dark lines. This seems intrinsic to the jungle chips of these early sets, as even if you RGB mod them, the artifacting still persists. Still looks pretty great, though.

So the early chassis D’s and non-D’s can be RGB modded, does that improve picture quality at all? The answer is, surprisingly, not really.

Here’s an RGB modded AV-32D201 from 2000:

This comparison between RGB and component shows that YPbPr and RGB look almost identical. Whites are less blown out, but the luma artifacting is still there. Overall, RGB is a noticeable improvement, but only marginally.

There were three 20” D-Series models released from 2001 to 2003. They all used the same Samsung A51KRE89X tube, which has a coarser look compared to later Samsung curved 20” tubes found in Chinese sets by Prima and Changhong. Still a great look for retro games, though.

AV-20D303 (2002) AV-20D304 (2003)

The first 20” D-series was the AV-20D202 in 2001.**

With red push disabled, the picture on these sets is much improved:

27” D-Series models from 2001-onwards used either the _RCA A68ADT25X or Samsung A68QDN891X_ tubes. (Notice how the screens have a more pronounced curvature to them?)

AV-27D202 (2001) AV-27D302 (2001)

AV-27D203 (2002) AV-27D503 (2002)

AV-27D104 (2003) AV-27D304 (2003)

AV-27D305 (2004)

I once had an AV-27D502 (2001). The specific set I had used an RCA A68ADT25X tube which, although it had decent emissions, the corners were rather soft.

Whether it be the ADT family tubes being lower-end models, or RCA dropping the ball with the material on the electron guns, these tubes just seem to age poorly and develop soft corners faster than others.

What? RCA/Thomson tubes being overrated? Say it isn’t so!

The post-2000 27” D’s with Samsung tubes are better, and don’t age as fast. But who knows, maybe you can snag an RCA tube model that isn’t worn out yet! Still looked pretty good for low-horizontal-res 240p, I must say:

32” D-Series models; these used the following tubes: _RCA A80AEJ10X/15X, Hitachi A80LJF30X, Panasonic M80JUA061X, and M.T. A80AKB50X.

AV-32D202 (2001) AV-32D302 (2001)

AV-32D104 (2003) AV-32D304 (2003)

This AV-32D203 from 2002 was among the last to use a black case design. Heck, the other xD203 models also did!

Here’s an AV-32D303 from 2002:

Before and after disabling red push. The picture appears less warm and the reddish tones are no longer blown out! Much better.

Except for this AV-32D305 from 2004, as it lacks any option to adjust red-push in the service menu. Still, this set is a real crowd pleaser:

With an M.T. tube, it can look phenomenal:

36” D-Series models. These used the following tubes:_ RCA A90AEJ15X; Toshiba A90AHH50X, Hitachi A90LPY30X, Panasonic A90LLD361X, and M.T. A90AKB50X.

AV-36D202 (2001) _[A90AEJ15X & A90AHH50X] AV-36D302 (2001) [A90AEJ15X & A90AHH50X]_

AV-36D303 (2002) AV-36D503 (2002)

AV-36D203 (2002)

A JVC AV-36D502 from 2001 I owned displayed some scanline shades softer than others…

Look at the blue and red shades; notice how blobby they are? It looks… kinda bad. And this is over component!

So what’s going on here? This is some kind of combination of red push AND blue push, apparently! Is there any way in the service menu to disable this? I think I recall a specific setting to turn it off, but I don’t remember the name. Will update when I figure it out. RGB modding bypasses all that processing crap, as you can see:

What still IS a problem is the prominence of ABL (Automatic Brightness Limiter.) Normally, there is an ABL circuit that kicks in and brings down the energy from the electron guns during scenes of bright colors. However, it can become a problem over time, especially on the larger JVC sets. You see, as the capacitors in the ABL circuit age, the aggressiveness of the brightness limiting increases, resulting in annoying luminance fluctuations during scene transitions. Recapping the power section will fix this issue.

(By the way, there is technically no AV-36D305. Despite such a model being referenced in a compatibility list for matching stands, it actually doesn’t exist! JVC stopped making 36” D-Series models in 2003, it seems.)

And here it is, model AV-36D104 (2003)

Non-D-Series Sets

What about those “regular” JVC curved sets with component that have a different case design with the speakers below the screen rather than the sides? Here’s a mind blower: those sets share the exact same chassis and tubes as the D-Series, so the picture quality looks exactly the same! The only differences are that they have different case designs and that the D-Series has the option for BBE sound enhancement.

I call these other JVC sets with component inputs “non-D-Series.” The designs for these models are a carry over from the late-90s. The only sure-fire way to know if a non-D has component is to see the inputs or model number. Generally, the 27 and 32” models may have component or s-video if there is a set of AV inputs on the front. But again, you must see the back to know for sure…

The first non-D’s came out in 2001, so they started out with the middle-era chassis:

AV-27S33 (2002) AV-27230 (2001)

AV-27430 (2003) AV-27432 (2003)

AV-27320 (2002) AV-27330 (2002)

AV-27WR25 (2004)

The last curved JVCs were released from 2004-2005. One such model is the AV-27530 (2004).

These used the same late-era chassis since 2002, but they lack the option to disable red push…

Turning down the red drive and cutoff does seem to help, so maybe give it a try. Example:

32” non-D’s:

AV-32360 (2002) AV-32320 (2002)

AV-32S33 (2002) AV-32S36 (2002)

AV-32432 (2003) AV-32430 (2003)

Here’s an example from a JVC AV-32260 from 2001 over component:

Here’s a pic of my set with red push disabled. My specific model used a Panasonic tube with invar shadow mask, which explains why it looked so good:

36” non-D’s:

AV-36230 (2001) AV-36S33 (2002)

AV-36360 (2002) AV-36S36 (2002)

Here’s an AV-36260 from 2001:

A component signal will make the phosphors glisten:

So basically, the D-Series and non-D-Series with component inputs have the same picture quality, and are recommended the same as any other consumer TV with similar specs. Depending on where you live, JVC sets like these may be quite common, so feel free to pick them up!

In conclusion what all this basically adds up to is that the D-Series sets (and the non-D sets mentioned above), despite all their modern-day hype, are in reality not uniquely high performing compared to other CRTs with factory component input. If other brands shared the same inputs and tubes, then the picture quality was virtually the same. It's all good, as that means there are many other great sets out there for you to look for! You don't need to hold out for the perfect D series, there are many comperable (potentially even better) brands and models out there to find. Your best tool will be understanding what makes a CRT high performing in the first place. Condition, quality, chassis design, and tube mask density.

JVC Tube Models

JVC CRTs of the 2000’s came with a variety of picture tubes based on the model. And usually, the brand of the tube can have a minor effect on the overall quality of the image because different manufacturing plants held the tubes to different quality standards.

List of tubes in the early-era chassis:

27” :A68AEG25X (Default)

32" :Hitachi A80LJF30X (Default), Panasonic M80JUA061X (A)

36" :RCA A90AEJ15X, (Default) & A90AFX15X; Toshiba A90AHH50X (A), LG A80QCF240X (B)

List of all tubes used in the D-Series and Non-D sets from 2001-onwards:

20” : Samsung A51KRE89X (S)

27” : RCA A68ADT25X, (R) Samsung A68QDN891X (S).

32” : _RCA A80AEJ10/15X (R), Hitachi A80LJF30X (H), Panasonic M80JUA061X (M), & M.T. A80AKB50X (Y, YM, or M).

36” :RCA A90AEJ15X (R), Toshiba A90AHH50X, (Y), Hitachi A90LPY30X (H), Panasonic A90LLD361X (M), & M.T. A90AKB50X (Y, YM, or M).

…

Here are various pics of the model tags of the color picture tubes inside JVC sets:

RCA/Thomson A68ADT25X01 in the AV-27D305 from 2004**. Common tube, and it looks ok.

As you can see, this Hitachi A80LJF30X is found in an AV-32D302 (2001). One of Hitachi's last!

This AV-32D305 (2004) has a Matsushita-Toshiba tube model M80JUA061X:

An AV-36D502 (2001) I had was using an A90AHH50X tube manufactured by Toshiba:

JVC AV-32150 from 2000 has a rare LG-made tube, A80QCF240X, before their merger with Philips:

Samsung had their A68QDN891X001 tube in this JVC AV-27320 from 2003:

And finally, this Philips’ A80ERF182X17L tube was inside the I’Art AV-32CF36 from 2005: